	Orient yourself. Find the PCB and align it as shown. This is the 'top' or 'component side' of the PCB with the white silk-screen legend; the parts will go on this side with their leads underneath. The other side is called the 'solder side' and it's where you'll solder the components to the board. It also has all the 'traces' of copper that make the circuit.
	Install the 8pin socket. Insert the socket from the top. Make sure the notch in the socket lines up with the notch in the silkscreen. Now turn the board over and solder all eight leads. The socket makes it easier to remove and install the controller IC. You could solder the IC directly to the board, but this is cleaner.
	Install the 78L05 regulator. Insert the 78L05 into the three holes. When you're inserting it, make sure you align the flat side of the 78L05 with the flat side of the outline. Also, make sure the middle pin goes into the middle hole, it's slightly recessed from the other two. Flip the board over and solder. The 78L05 is a 5 volt linear regulator that converts the fan connector's 12 volts down to the 5 volts used by the controller.
	Install the 4.7KΩ resistor (Yellow-Violet-Red-Gold). Bend one of the leads over 180° so both leads point in the same direction, now insert the leads into the holes marked 'R1'. You may insert either lead in either hole, the resistor doesn't care. Now turn over and solder the leads. Clip them short when you're done. (The PCB is inverted in this picture to the previous two)
	Install the two 27KΩ resistors (Red-Violet-Orange-Gold). As before, bend one lead of each resistor over 180° and insert them into the holes marked R2 and R3. These are the same resistors so you may install either resistor in either location. Solder and trim them. (The PCB is back upright, but only one resistor is installed, you should install R3 too!)
	Install the 18KΩ resistor (Brown-Grey-Orange-Gold). Bend the leads, insert into the location marked R4, solder, and trim. (This picture is taken from the bottom of the board and shows all four resistors in their places. You can make out the individual color bands in the full picture.)
	Install the 2Ω to 4Ω resistor. This resistor is physically larger (it's 1/2 watt) and will be between 2 and 4 ohms. Bend, insert, solder, and clip just like the others. This resistor applies a small resistance to the fan so the controller can measure how fast the fan spins.
	Install 5 1μF electrolytic capacitors. If you look at the footprint/outline for each capacitor (they're round with two holes) you'll notice a tiny + and - inscribed. When you insert the capacitors, find the longer leg and insert it into the hole on the + side or make sure the band of '-'s on the capacitors body is lined up with the '-' on the board. Insert all 5 capacitors, solder, and trim.
	Install the LED. Like the capacitors, the LED has a small '+' sign on the board. Insert the LED's long leg into the hole marked with the '+' sign. Solder and trim the LED's leads. The LED will light up when the controller senses a fault like a stalled fan or an excessive temperature.
	Install the MOSFET. Install the MOSFET like shown. With the black body towards the socket, insert the three leads, then bend back flush with the work-top. Solder the three leads and trim them short. If you like, you may install the MOSFET in a vertical style by inserting the leads all the way and not bending it back. The metal heat-sink side will line up with the small line on the back of the silk-screen. For the very brave, you can also install the MOSFET under the board with it's metal tab against the bottom of the board. You'll need to use electrical tape to isolate the tab from the socket's solder points. The MOSFET is used by the controller to rapidly turn on and off power to the fan allowing the controller to vary the fan speed.
	Install the thermistor. Insert the thermistor into it's two holes, and arrange at the height you'd like. Solder and trim it's leads. You may also solder wire between the board and the thermistor and place it closest to the heat source! The thermistor is used to sense the temperature for the fan controller.
	Install the fan connector. Install the fan connector as shown in the pictures. You don't need to trim it's leads, their short enough already. This is where you'll plug in the fan you want to control.
	Insert the fan controller chip. You may need to bend the chip's leads to 90° angles. You can do this by pressing them against your work surface. Now line up the chip's notch and the socket's notch (which should line up with the silk-screen notch) and insert the chip into the socket. You may need to apply two fingers worth of force.

The kit ships with a three pin cable and 3 pin connectors designed to connect the RPM sense line of typical computer fans. Because of the way PWM speed control works, the output signal is shifted up several volts from it's normal value. Our tests showed normal values of 2 to 5 volts DC and values of 2 to 12 volts DC while using the fan controller. All of the motherboards we tested handled this correctly, but that doesn't mean yours will too. For the technically inclined, we've captured some waveforms under various conditions.

If in doubt, do one of the following:

Don't connect the third wire (orange in the pictures and kits).
Install a 1µF to 10µF capacitor inline in the orange wire. This works as a DC block and only nominal AC signals should appear on the other side.
Install a 2 to 5v Zener diode between the third wire and ground. This clamps the signal to a maximum of 5 volts.

If your fan or target application doesn't use pulse-based RPM sensing, just don't use the third wire.

	Strip the cable. Using a cutting tool or wire-stripper strip about 4mm from one end and about 2mm from the other. On the 4mm end, pull the individual wires apart so they have roughly 2mm of insulation before they join together again.
	Separate the blades/pins. The pins for the connector come joined together by a strip of metal at the top. Bend the pins away from the metal strip until they're free.
	Insert the wire into the pin. Lay the wire into the channel in the pin and push forward until a small amount of bare wire is under the folded blade. As in the picture, you should have a section of insulated wire in the first crimp, a section of bare wire in the second crimp, and a section of bare wire under the folded blade. Repeat for the other (two) wires.
	Crimp the pins to the wire. Using your needle-nose pliers or other implement, squeeze the first set of crimps around the insulated section of wire, then fold the second set of crimps over the exposed wire. If you like, add a dab of solder for good measure. You should use your multimeter to check for connectivity/continuity between the pin and the other end of each wire. Repeat for the other (two) wires.
	Slide the pins into the housing. Line up the three or two wires, then side them into the housing with the bulky part of the pins up and the ridges on the housing up. Notice how the orange wire has some stray conductors, that's not what we want, gently prod them into the housing as well.
	Finish inserting the pins. Insert the pins until you hear them all click into their place. Your connector should look like the picture with three or two pins showing through the windows with their locking tabs sticking up.
	Connect the cable to the board. Insert the three (or two) wires as shown and solder them to the board. If your wires are especially long under the board, you may wish to trim them.

Assemble a Fan Controller

Assemble the board

Stop - Think - Decide

Assemble the cable

Done