iDuino Assembly

Cut down the pin headers.

Using your side currents, cut the supplied 40 pin header into the following lengths:

• 8 pin
• 6 pin
• 15 pin
• 2x 3 pin

You should now have 5 pins left, use them as you need. If you broke one of the headers, don't worry, just use two smaller pieces side by side.

Using the four 1KΩ resistors, bend the legs close to the body of the resistor.

Place the resistors into the positions marked R2, R3, R4, and R5. They are not polarized, but they'll look prettier if they face in the same direction.

Flip the PCB over and solder the legs (all 8 of them).

Finally, using your cutters, clip the legs close to the PCB.

Install the 10KΩ resistor.

Repeat the last steps (bend, place, solder, clip) to install the 10KΩ resistor into R1.

When you install the socket, make sure the notch is close to the reset switch.

Flip the board over and solder all 28 connections. Be careful not to melt the plastic housing by lingering too long with your iron. You don't need to trim these leads either.

Place the capacitors in there spots; they are not polarized and they're all the same.

If you don't want auto-reset, don't install the right-most capacitor.

Solder the capacitors and clip their leads.

Install the diode or Jumper.

Into the outermost hole, insert the diode with it's cathode (striped end) up.

Now bend the free lead down into the other hole and solder.

LEDs are polarized and the location of the 'anode' (longer lead or positive side) is marked with a circle around the hole. v3.0 and v3.1 have different orientations, follow the directions according to your kit version (printed on the bottom, under the USB connector).

Version 3.1: the longest lead (anode) goes in the inside hole; this is indicated with a small ring around the pad and a '+' mark.

Version 3.0: the longest lead (anode) goes in the outside hole; on many boards this is indicated with a small ring around the pad.

You may whichever color you like in whichever position you like, it's up to you. I've placed the red LED in the power position and the yellow LED in the pin-13 position.

Solder both LEDs (4 leads) and trim the leads flush.

The capacitor is polarized, insert the longer lead into the hole marked with a +; alternately, install with the stripe facing out.

Solder and trim the capacitors leads.

Place the reset switch. Make sure the leads are on the top and bottom, not on the sides.

Solder the switch; you don't need to cut the leads, but use enough solder for a good mechanical connection.

This is easy, place the resonator; it will work in either orientation, but I like to keep the value facing out.

Solder all three leads. Even though they're short, you should trim them too.

If your USB connector wasn't pre-soldered, place the USB connector. The lugs snap in and will hold the connector in place temporarily.

Solder the 4 signal/power pins. Don't apply too much solder or you may short the pin to the housing.

Apply a generous amount of solder to both lugs. These are the mechanical connection between the iDuino and the USB connector. You should have a nice pool of solder completely filling the hole.

In a bread-board, insert the headers as shown in the picture. We use the breadboard to keep the headers straight and level while we solder.

Place the iDuino on the headers.

With the iDuino positioned on the headers, solder all 28 pins on the top of the PCB. Don't heat a pin too long or you'll melt the header, the breadboard, or both.

After a few seconds, remove the iDuino (with headers) and inspect your work.

Insert the Atmega IC into the socket. Make sure the notch is away from the USB connector. You may need to straighten/flatten the IC pins.