Spiffie.org Bus Pirate Assembly

So you've checked the parts list and made sure you have all the tools you'll need? Then lets solder!

	1KΩ Resistors. Insert the 7 1KΩ resistors (brown-black-red-gold/silver) into the locations marked “1K”. Just bend their leads out so they stay in place, there are a bunch more parts to insert before we solder them.
	10KΩ Resistors. Insert the 10 10KΩ resistors (brown-black-orange-gold/silver) into the locations marked '10K'. Again, just bend the leads to keep them in place.
	1N4004 Diode. With the stripe on the diode aligned with the stripe on the silk-screen, insert the diode into the board. Bend it's leads to keep it in place.
Solder. Solder all the leads now, and trim them flush with the board.
	RS232 Driver. Orient the chip with it's notch 'up' and solder it in. (If you like, you can use a 16-pin 0.300” DIP socket here, but there's no reason to ever remove the IC, so the kit doesn't use a socket.)
	5.0v Regulator. There are two very similar looking ICs, the 5V one is labeled just 51ACN or 51CN (The 3.3v regulator is labeled 51ACN-3.3 or 51CN-3.3). Locate the notch on the silkscreen for the '5.0' IC outline, it's pointed toward the bottom of the board. Align the notch in the chip with the notch in the silk-screen and pop the IC in. Go ahead and solder it in.
	3.3v Regulator. Locate the notch on the silkscreen for the '3.3' IC outline, it's pointed toward the bottom of the board. Align the notch in the chip with the notch in the silk-screen and place the IC then solder.
	Processor Socket. Align the notch in the socket with the notch at the top of the silk-screen. Press it into the holes and solder. (You can forgo the socket and solder the PIC directly to the board, but the pic is expensive and delicate.
	This is not a capacitor. In a moment, you'll need to solder in the 100nF ceramic caps. There's an outline near the DB9 header marked TP1. As convincing as it is, you should not put a capacitor here! (You can install a jumper or shunt here to connect the RS232 shield ground to bus pirate ground.)
	100nF ceramic capacitors. There are 11 ceramic capacitors spread around the board. These provide high-frequency decoupling and work the MAX232 charge-pumps. Solder a capacitor into each location and trim their leads flush.
	LEDs. There are two 3mm LEDs to install. Each LED has a positive and negative lead. Locate the positive on the LED by finding the longer leg. On the board, the positive is shown with a tiny + beside the hole. Install the LEDs, solder them, and trim their leads. There are two separate colors of LED included in the kit. You may use them however you like.
	2N3904 NPN Transistor. There are two TO92 devices in the kit, so you'll need to check the part markings. The 2N3904 is clearly marked on it's face as 2N3904. The board is equally marked as 2N3904 Align the flat-side of the transistor with the flat-side of the outline and slide the leads into their holes. Flip the board over, solder, and trim.
	3.3v regulator - 78L33. The other TO92 device is the system vcc regulator, a 78L33. Once again, line up the flat side of the part with the outline's flat side, insert, solder, and trim.
	Electrolytic Capacitors. Electrolytic capacitors are polarized devices, and need to be inserted with the correct polarization. Each of the outlines has a small + inscribed inside the circular outline. This denotes the positive hole. On each capacitor, the longer lead denotes the positive side (a black stripe on the body is directly above the negative lead). Other than physical size, both capacitors in this kit are interchangeable.
	Input Filtering Capacitor. This is a wide but flat capacitor, in the kit it typically has a green body. Line up the positive lead and the positive hole, then insert the capacitor, solder, and trim it's leads. This capacitor helps smooth out any ripple or noise in the power adapter supply.
	PIC Supply Capacitor. This is a tall-skinny capacitor, in the kit it's typically brown or deep-blue. Line up the positive lead and the positive hole, then insert the capacitor, solder, and trim it's leads. This capacitor helps the PIC's internal regulator maintain a stable voltage.
	Power and Data Connectors. These two 8-pin headers let you connect to the on-board power supplies and the signal lines. Depending on your kit, these will be right-angle male connectors, straight male headers, straight female headers, or terminal blocks. Insert the headers into their holes and solder them. You may find holding them in place while you solder the first pin helps.
	Pull-up Jumper Block. Solder the jumper block into place. Again, you may want to hold it in place while soldering the first connection. This header lets you individual connect the pull-up resistors on the MISO/RX, CS/TX, SDA/MOSI, and SCL/CLK lines.
	DB9 RS232 Connector. Insert the connector into the board, the outside mounting lugs should have a satisfying click when they're all the way in and provide noticeable holding force. Solder the two big lugs and then the 9 smaller signal lines.
	DC Power Connector. Place the power connector into it's holes and solder. The connector only fits loosely into it's holes (it's hard to drill rectangular holes), so hold it in place while you start to solder.
	Bend the IC Pins. To make machines lives easier, DIP chips come from the factory with their leads slightly bent out. They need to be straightened before being inserted into the socket. You can bend the leads against the table until they're mostly 90° to the body of the chip.
	Install the PIC. Line the notch of the chip up with the notch in the silk-screen of the board (and hopefully the socket). Carefully press the chip into it's socket.
All done!